Ipe and teak decking: maintenance and oiling

A hardwood deck is an investment, and the warm, reddish-brown tone of ipe or teak is hard to beat. But hardwood behaves differently from regular deck wood, and therefore it must also be cared for differently. If you use the wrong oil or the wrong amount, you can easily end up with a sticky deck instead of a beautiful one. Here's a comprehensive guide to caring for and oiling hardwood: what characterizes the wood, whether you should oil it at all, what oil is suitable, and how to do it correctly.

What characterizes hardwood?

This guide focuses on dense tropical hardwoods commonly used for decking, including ipe, teak, cumaru and bangkirai. These differ from softwood decking such as pine and spruce in density, natural durability and the way they absorb oil.

• Ipé is some of the densest and most durable wood you can lay on a deck. It is so hard that it is difficult to screw into without pre-drilling, and it lasts for many decades.
• Teak is known for its natural oil content, which makes it resistant to water and rot. For the same reason, it is the classic choice for boats and garden furniture.
• Cumaru is similar to ipe, is very hard, and has a warm, golden-brown tone. It is often a slightly cheaper alternative to ipe.
• Bangkirai is the most common hardwood on Danish decks. It is hard and durable, but slightly softer and more affordable than the others.

The important thing to understand is that hardwood is dense and oily. The cells are so close together, and the wood's own oils take up so much space, that there is not much room for an external oil to penetrate. This is precisely the key to how the wood should be cared for.

Should hardwood even be oiled?

Oiling is mainly a way to retain the timber's colour. Durable hardwoods such as ipe and teak can be left to weather to a grey patina, provided the decking is properly constructed, drains well and is maintained. Natural durability does not mean that the wood can never decay.

Without treatment, one thing happens to all hardwood: it turns grey. The sun's UV light breaks down the outermost cell layers, and over a season or two, the warm, reddish-brown colour changes to a silver-grey patina. This is completely natural and does not harm the wood. Many people actually find the grey tone beautiful and calm, while others miss the original colour.

The choice is really a matter of taste. If you want to keep the warm, dark colour, you must oil it. If you like the grey patina, you can safely leave the wood alone and just keep it clean. You can always change your mind later.

What oil is suitable for hardwood?

Here lies the most important difference from ordinary decks. Because hardwood is so dense and oily, it cannot absorb a regular, thick deck oil. It just lies on top of the surface, where it sticks, collects dust, and peels off. Therefore, you must choose an oil developed specifically for hardwood.

A suitable hardwood oil is thin with low viscosity, so it can penetrate into the small space that is still in the wood cells, instead of forming a film on top. Many of these oils are pigmented, so they simultaneously refresh the warm colour and provide some UV protection that slows down the greying. Teak wood is often treated with a dedicated teak oil, adapted to that specific wood type's natural oil content.

If you want to delve into the specific oil types and the difference between pigmented and clear oil, we have gathered it in our guide to which deck oil you should choose. The main rule for hardwood is simple: look for an oil where the manufacturer explicitly states that it is intended for hardwood or tropical wood. Avoid the thick, opaque deck oils made for softwoods.

How to care for your hardwood deck

The care of a hardwood deck itself falls into three steps: cleaning, optional light sanding, and a thin oiling. It's simple, as long as you remember that less is more when it comes to the amount of oil.

Step 1: Clean the deck thoroughly

Start by removing dirt, algae, and old, loose oil. Brown soap in lukewarm water and a stiff brush go a long way on a hardwood deck that is not heavily soiled. If there are green algae or a grey layer, a suitable deck cleaner can help. Avoid high-pressure cleaners at high pressure, as they can raise the wood fibres and make the surface rough. Let the deck dry completely, preferably a couple of dry days, before proceeding. Oil and moisture are not friends.

Step 2: Sand lightly if the wood is grey or rough

If the deck has turned grey or the surface feels rough, a light sanding makes a big difference. You only sand away the outermost, degraded cell layer, so the fresh, warm wood underneath reappears. Use a coarse to medium-coarse grit and sand along the grain of the wood. This is often where a grey deck truly regains its colour. We have described the technique in detail in the guide to sanding balconies and wooden decks. On a well-maintained deck that just needs re-oiling, you can skip sanding.

Step 3: Apply a thin layer of oil

Now comes the most important part. Apply the oil in a very thin, even layer with a brush, cloth, or flat oil mop, working your way board by board along the grain of the wood. Let the oil penetrate for the time indicated by the manufacturer, typically fifteen minutes to half an hour. After this, the crucial maneuver is to wipe off all excess oil with a dry, lint-free cloth. Everything that the wood has not absorbed must be removed from the surface, and it is precisely this wiping that separates a beautiful result from a sticky deck. If the wood needs more, you can apply another thin layer the next day. Our general overview can be found in the guide to oiling a deck.

How often should hardwood be oiled?

Because hardwood is so dense and durable, it needs to be oiled less frequently than a regular deck. While a softwood deck will often need oil once or twice a year, a hardwood deck typically only needs one annual treatment, and in some places every two years is sufficient. You treat according to need rather than according to the calendar.

The simple test is to look at the colour. When the warm tone begins to fade and the wood looks dry and dull, it's time for a new, thin oiling. A good fixed time is early spring or early autumn, when the weather is mild and dry, and when you avoid both scorching sun and expected rain for the first 24 hours. Always remember that it is better to oil thinly and often than thickly and rarely.

Common mistakes with hardwood and oil

Most problems with hardwood decks are not due to too little care, but to incorrect care. Here are the typical mistakes to be aware of.

• Too thick oil. The classic mistake is to use a regular, thick deck oil. It cannot penetrate the dense wood and instead forms a sticky film that collects dirt and peels off. Always choose a thin hardwood oil.
• Too much oil. Even the right oil will give a sticky result if you apply too much and forget to wipe off the excess. The wood can only absorb a limited amount, and the rest must be removed.
• Oil on damp or dirty wood. If you apply oil to wood that is not clean and completely dry, you trap moisture and dirt, and the oil will not bind well. Patience with drying pays off.
• High pressure at full power. A high-pressure cleaner at high pressure can raise the fibres and make the otherwise smooth hardwood surface rough, making it both look duller and harder to maintain.

If your deck has already become sticky or peeled due to incorrect treatment, it can be saved. A cleaning or light sanding removes the old, failed layer, so you can start over with the correct, thin oil.

DIY or professionals?

Most people can easily handle a small hardwood deck that just needs cleaning and a thin layer of oil on a good weekend. However, it makes good sense to let professionals handle it when the deck is large, when it has turned grey and requires thorough sanding, or when a previous treatment has gone wrong and needs to be corrected. Even, correct sanding of an entire hardwood deck is hard and time-consuming work.

If you want professionals to handle the sanding and oiling of your deck, we are happy to help. You can read more about how we work with sanding balconies and decks, and you are always welcome to call us at 20 98 88 11 for a non-binding offer. You will get a fixed price before we start, so you know exactly what the task costs, and we always get back to you within 24 hours.

Frequently Asked Questions

Should hardwood be oiled?

Oiling is mainly a choice about appearance. Durable hardwoods such as ipe and teak can be allowed to weather to a grey patina, while a suitable oil helps retain their warmer colour. Keep the decking clean and check drainage and condition whichever finish you choose; no timber is immune to decay in all conditions.

What oil should be used for ipe and teak?

Use a thin hardwood oil with low viscosity that can penetrate the dense wood. Regular, thick deck oil for softwoods will remain on top and be sticky. For teak, a dedicated teak oil is often used. Choose an oil where the manufacturer explicitly states that it is for hardwood or tropical wood.

Why does hardwood become sticky after oiling?

Because the wood has not been able to absorb the oil. This happens if you have used an oil that is too thick, applied too much, or forgotten to wipe off the excess. Hardwood is so dense that it only absorbs a small amount of thin oil, and everything that does not penetrate must be wiped off with a dry cloth, otherwise it will remain sticky.

How often should a hardwood deck be oiled?

Less often than a regular deck. A hardwood deck typically needs one oiling per year, and in some places every two years is sufficient. Treat according to need rather than according to the calendar: when the warm colour begins to fade and the wood looks dry and dull, it's time for a new, thin layer.

Can a grey hardwood deck be saved?

Yes. The grey patina is only the outermost, UV-degraded cell layer and does not harm the wood. A light sanding along the grain of the wood removes the grey layer and brings out the fresh, warm wood again. Then you re-oil with a thin hardwood oil to preserve the colour.